The Dolomites classic: the Große Zinne (Great Peak). An absolute must for every mountain lover, especially to be mastered in difficulty grade 3 accompanied by an experienced mountain guide.
- Fairly easy normal route at grade III
- THE Dolomites classic
- Best view of the Sexten Dolomites
Via a ramp (I) into the base of a chimney gully (I, approx. 40 m) and through the chimney or along its left wall (II+) to the first notch between the south face and the pyramid-like forebody (II, approx. 60 m). Exit the notch slightly uphill to the right onto a small platform (II). Continue through a gully (II) to its end at the second notch. Then further left on easy terrain through a wide gorge (I) upward to the third notch.
Exit the notch slightly keeping right over a steep wall (III) and then follow clearly visible traces (partly cairns) over ramps (max. II+) to two memorial plaques. Ascend through one of the gullies (max. II+), then possibly traverse left on scree bands to the gully that ends in a large, slanted slab. Now climb the pillar left of the gully (max. III-). Quite strenuous and very smooth, climb through the chimney behind a slab on the right (III+, crux) to a notch. From there go left up the steep wall (III) to a belay ring. From the ring climb up a bit (III-) and traverse left on a good ledge with a large block into a small basin (II). Exit this along the wall or via a crack (I, getting easier going up) to the upper terrace ledge (ring band).
Follow the terrace ledge left to a cairn where distinct ascent traces (I) lead towards the summit. The traces go through a short smooth chimney-like gully (III-). At its end ascend left through a gully, then continue right and traverse around a smooth block (III-; "Böser Block"). After a short corner, continue on stepped terrain (I-) to the summit.
Approach to the wall:
From the parking lot at Rifugio Auronzo, follow the wide hiking trail toward Rifugio Lavaredo for about half a kilometer. Then leave the path to the left onto trail traces and ascend toward the notch between the Große and Kleine Zinne. The start is at a slanted gully/ravine system descending from the east side of Große Zinne. Starting elevation approx. 2580 m.
From Sexten to Toblach and further into the Höhlensteintal valley. At Schluderbach, turn left towards Misurina. Shortly before the Misurina lake, turn left to the parking lot at Auronzo hut.
WARNING: The ascent must be booked in advance and is subject to a fee.
